Vintage costume jewelry is more than a decorative accessory—it’s a journey through time, culture, craftsmanship, and fashion history. Created from the early 20th century through the 1980s, these pieces often mirrored fine jewelry in appearance but were designed using more affordable materials. Yet today, many of these adornments have appreciated in value, commanding attention from collectors, historians, and fashion enthusiasts alike.
What elevates certain vintage costume jewelry pieces from charming to priceless? Rarity, condition, designer pedigree, and materials all contribute. Some names, like Miriam Haskell or Eisenberg, now carry weight akin to Cartier or Tiffany among costume collectors. This article will explore ten of the most high-value vintage costume jewelry pieces, unpacking their histories, market performance, and why they continue to capture imaginations—and investments—worldwide.
Top 10 High-Value Vintage Costume Jewelry Pieces
1. Miriam Haskell Baroque Pearl Parure (1930s–1950s)
Miriam Haskell was one of the earliest visionaries of American costume jewelry. Her handcrafted creations often featured faux pearls, crystal florets, and hand-wired filigree components. Among her most desirable pieces is the baroque pearl parure—a coordinated set including necklace, earrings, and bracelet. Often using irregular faux pearls and hand-set rhinestones, these pieces showcase the quintessential Antique Jewelry Style of the 1930s to 1950s. Depending on condition and completeness, a Haskell parure can fetch between $1,200 and $3,000 at auction.
2. Eisenberg Original Rhinestone Brooches (1940s)
Originally a clothing company, Eisenberg began adding rhinestone jewelry to garments to enhance appeal. The sparkling brooches proved so popular that the jewelry line became a stand-alone entity. The 1940s “Eisenberg Originals” brooches, particularly those featuring Swarovski crystals set in sterling silver, are highly sought-after. Look for the “Eisenberg Original” signature and designs shaped like bows, floral sprays, or abstract geometrics. Pristine examples regularly sell for $800 to $2,500, depending on rarity.
3. Trifari Alfred Philippe Crown Jewels Collection (1937)
Trifari’s collaboration with Alfred Philippe—formerly a designer for Cartier—ushered in some of the most luxurious pieces in costume jewelry history. The “Crown Jewels” line, launched in 1937 to celebrate King George VI’s coronation, borrowed heavily from fine jewelry designs. Using invisible-set rhinestones, faux sapphires, and emerald cabochons, the collection mimicked royal extravagance. Today, signed pieces from this collection can bring upwards of $2,000, with rarer examples topping $4,000 in excellent condition.
4. Chanel Gripoix Glass Necklace (1950s–1970s)
Chanel costume jewelry, especially pieces incorporating poured glass from Maison Gripoix, epitomizes high-end vintage fashion. These necklaces feature vibrant glass “gems” in Byzantine-inspired designs. Worn by Hollywood stars and European elites, the necklaces were made in limited numbers. Chanel’s enduring appeal and the Gripoix family’s artisanal legacy push these pieces into the upper echelons of vintage collecting. Prices range from $2,000 to $7,500 depending on design complexity and condition.
5. Schiaparelli Surrealist Earrings (1950s)
Elsa Schiaparelli, a rival of Coco Chanel, embraced surrealism and avant-garde aesthetics. Her jewelry collections—particularly those from the 1950s—are filled with bold designs and unconventional color combinations. Earrings featuring molded glass, iridescent rhinestones, and fantastical shapes capture her flair for the dramatic. These surrealist pieces often appeal to both jewelry and art collectors, fetching between $1,500 and $4,000 for rare pairs in original boxes.
6. Hobe Egyptian Revival Sets (1940s)
During the 1940s, Hobe produced a series of Egyptian Revival jewelry that captured public imagination. Inspired by ancient artifacts and archaeological finds, the designs featured hieroglyphic motifs, scarabs, and metallic beadwork. These elaborate sets, often including bib necklaces and matching bracelets, are highly collectible. In pristine condition with original markings, a full set can command $2,500 to $6,000 on the collector’s market.
7. Weiss Aurora Borealis Crystal Sets (1950s)
Albert Weiss’s name is synonymous with sparkle, especially due to his company’s early use of Swarovski’s “Aurora Borealis” (AB) coating—a rainbow-like finish applied to clear rhinestones. These crystal sets, composed of earrings, necklaces, and brooches, captured mid-century glitz. Their shimmering luster made them a favorite among 1950s and early 1960s fashionistas. A complete AB set in mint condition can range from $700 to $1,800 depending on its intricacy and rarity.
8. Juliana by DeLizza & Elster Statement Pieces (1967–1972)
Though never officially signed, Juliana pieces by DeLizza & Elster are identifiable by their signature five-link bracelet construction and dramatic stone arrangements. Popular in the late ’60s and early ’70s, these items used brightly colored rhinestones and layered designs. With growing collector awareness, Juliana pieces have appreciated significantly, especially rare colorways or seasonal motifs. Top examples—such as layered floral bib necklaces—now reach $1,500 to $3,500 in value.
9. Kenneth Jay Lane Faux Coral & Pearl Chokers (1960s–1980s)
Known for his unapologetically bold designs, Kenneth Jay Lane elevated costume jewelry into the realm of high fashion. His faux coral and pearl chokers, frequently worn by royalty and celebrities (including Jackie Kennedy), are considered icons of retro luxury. They reflect his belief that costume jewelry should be as expressive and important as fine jewelry. Today, these pieces range from $900 to $2,500, with some celebrity-worn examples bringing in even higher prices.
10. Boucher Art Deco Fur Clips (1930s–1940s)
Marcel Boucher’s early work, especially his Art Deco fur clips, blend European elegance with American innovation. His use of rhodium-plated metal, molded glass stones, and architectural motifs make these pieces both eye-catching and highly collectible. Though often overlooked in favor of brooches and necklaces, fur clips are increasingly appreciated among collectors. Unique Art Deco styles, particularly double-clip sets, can sell between $1,000 and $3,000, particularly if marked and in excellent condition.
Understanding the Value Behind Costume Jewelry
One of the most fascinating aspects of vintage costume jewelry lies in its surprising and sometimes astronomical Antique Jewelry Value. Unlike fine jewelry, value here is determined not by intrinsic materials but by design excellence, historical relevance, brand cachet, and condition. Provenance can further raise a piece’s value—especially if linked to Hollywood stars or fashion icons.
Rarity plays a pivotal role. Limited production runs, discontinued lines, and singular design periods (like Art Deco or Mid-Century Modern) create demand spikes. In parallel, collectors often chase after complete parures or sets, as original groupings significantly boost market desirability.
Tips for Collecting High-Value Vintage Costume Jewelry
Condition Is Critical
Scratched glass, missing stones, or corroded metal significantly detract from value. Always inspect clasps, backs, and hallmark placements. Original boxes or documentation add further value.
Know the Marks
Familiarize yourself with hallmarks and signatures. Many makers used stamps or tags, though some (like Juliana) did not. Reference books and collector guides are indispensable in this regard.
Buy from Reputable Sources
Whether purchasing from antique shops, estate sales, or online platforms, ensure the seller has a track record and offers authenticity guarantees. Provenance and photos of original owners add credibility.
Watch Market Trends
Costume jewelry has its own fads. What’s in vogue today may be under the radar tomorrow. Track auction results, collector forums, and style blogs to anticipate movements and spot emerging value trends.
Conclusion
Vintage costume jewelry offers an accessible, beautiful, and historically rich gateway into the broader world of collecting. It merges the glamour of past fashion eras with modern investment potential. While gold and diamonds may always have intrinsic value, the finest costume pieces carry something arguably more compelling: a story, a designer’s vision, and a slice of cultural history.
Whether you’re drawn by the sparkle, the history, or the thrill of the hunt, one thing is certain: high-value vintage costume jewelry is not merely decoration—it’s wearable art with a tale to tell.
